Emmeline Pankhurst
Emmeline Pankhurst is an elegantly attired revolutionary trying to break down the establishment, a fashionista who doesn’t give a rap for animal rights. Known as ‘Pank’ to her suffragette devotees, she promotes window smashing, arson and martyrdom in Holloway Gaol to press her cause. Votes for Women is her goal; the feathered hat is her brand.
We threw away all our conventional notions of what was ‘ladylike’ and ‘good form,’ and we applied to our methods the one test question, Will it help?”
Etta Lemon
Etta Lemon is a formidable conservationist trying to save the world’s birdlife from ‘murderous millinery’ and the insatiable plumage trade. Known as ‘The Dragon,’ or ‘Mother of the Birds’, she is a woman of strong emotions and even stronger opinions, with no time for the male science of ornithology – or, indeed, for the idea of women’s suffrage.
“While these foreign birds are to be had at such ridiculous prices, that class of the community which rejoices in gaudy headgear is not likely to forego its passion.”
Emily Williamson
Founder of the Society for the Protection of Birds in Didsbury, Manchester, 1889, in response to the plight of the crested grebe, a milliner’s favourite.
“Women are mostly timid in inaugurating anything, but they are very ready to give their help to a good cause when they are shown the way.”
Eliza Phillips
Fervently Christian founder of the Fur, Fin and Feather Folk of Croydon, Surrey, 1889. Head of publications at the early SPB, when her and Emily’s societies merged in 1891.
“It is women’s vanity that stimulates the greed of commerce, and women’s money that tempts bird-slaughterers to continue their cruel work at home and abroad.”
Winifred, Duchess of Portland
Humanitarian aristocrat behind a roster of good causes, from pit ponies, to girls’ education, to caged birds. President of the RSPB for 60 years.
“In America they do some things better than we do here. When a lady wears an osprey they tear it off her head, hat and all.”
Queen Alexandra
Fashion-conscious wife of the adulterous King Edward VII, ‘Alix’ put her influential name behind the bird protection movement in 1906.
“I am desired to add that HM never wears Osprey feathers herself, and will certainly do all in her power to discourage the cruelty practised on these beautiful birds.”
Alice Battershall
Lowly feather washer of Finsbury, London, jailed for the theft of two ostrich feathers in 1885. Unreliable earnings of five shillings a week.
“No industry is more in fluctuation, for fashion alternates between flowers, birds, feathers and velvets. It is a mystery how these girls live” – Mr Lakeman, Factories & Workshops Inspector.
Beatrice Webb
Undercover investigator of London’s most impoverished women. Disguised as a ‘plain hand,’ she sought needlework in Whitechapel, 1885.
“At the next shop window I look nervously at my reflection, and am startled at my utterly forlorn appearance – destitute enough to be ‘sweated’ by any master.”
Margot Asquith
Wife of the lecherous Liberal Prime Minister, 1908-16; fashion addict, feather wearer, society hostess, letter writer and anti-suffragist.
“When I think what [King Edward VII’s] death means I can hardly hold back my tears. I went out and ordered a black dress and hat at Jays.”
Virginia Woolf
Writer, law-abiding suffragist and supporter of the RSPB’s plumage bill. Furious that women, not men, were blamed for the trade in feathers.
“The birds are killed by men, starved by men, and tortured by men – not vicariously, but with their own hands . . . But what do men care?”
Mary Ward
Popular novelist and leading figure in the women’s Anti-Suffrage League. Author of the Solemn Protest Against Women’s Suffrage, 1889.
“We are convinced that the pursuit of a mere outward quality with men is for women not only vain, but leads to a total misconception of women’s true dignity and special mission.”
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